On Choosing Beef for Omakase

Beef selection is one of the most delicate decisions in our work.

Tenderness alone is never our priority. In an omakase course, balance matters more than indulgence.

Japanese A5 sirloin is undeniably soft and richly marbled. Australian Wagyu tri-tip with a high marbling score can offer a similar depth. Both are luxurious in their own way. Yet within the structure of a multi-course progression, richness must be handled with care. Even a modest portion of highly marbled beef can begin to feel heavy when it arrives after several lighter dishes.

When we serve beef as the main course — typically around the seventh or eighth course — it follows a sequence of seafood and seasonal preparations. At that moment, the beef must feel grounding, yet never overwhelming. It should provide warmth and satisfaction while allowing the rhythm of the meal to continue undisturbed.

Cuts such as Australian rump or flap, even at higher marbling scores, often feel less heavy on the palate. They offer a gentle firmness — something appreciated by guests who enjoy texture as much as tenderness.

Flat iron is usually tender, and at its best, it carries a quiet depth that feels both generous and restrained. It reminds us that excellence is rarely loud; it reveals itself subtly, in balance.

Tenderloin presents a different conversation.

Because the cut is naturally low in intramuscular fat, it can sometimes feel too lean if not carefully selected. Its flavour may appear beautifully clean — almost too clean within the flow of an omakase course. However, a well-marbled Wagyu tenderloin transforms the experience. The inherent elegance of the cut remains, but the added marbling introduces depth without excess heaviness. Tenderness and richness coexist, quietly.

For us, beef is not meant to dominate the meal. It is not a display of luxury for its own sake. Instead, it serves as a bridge — connecting the lighter courses before it to the more reflective moments that follow.

We choose beef not for softness alone, but for harmony within the entire experience.

小林茉呂

Maro Kobayashi

Chef/Omakase Kobayash